Rizman Ruzaini
MUSTIKA
The theme 'Mustika' draws inspiration from the character in the 1999 film “Perempuan Melayu Terakhir” (“The Last Malay Woman”), directed by notable Malaysian filmmaker, Erma Fatima. The film delves into the complexities of preserving cultural heritage in a modernizing world and examines the tension between tradition and contemporary life in Malaysia. The correct spelling, 'mestika,' refers to a precious gem or something metaphorically exquisite or cherished—much like a beloved treasure. It symbolizes a valuable jewel and serves as a fitting reference for the inspiration behind this collection.
NOSTALGIC
The creative journey for this collection began when Ruzaini Jamil, our Creative Director, stumbled upon a cherished photograph of his late grandmother, Tok Puteh Surin, alongside her closest friends, elegantly dressed in kebayas and batik sarongs from the 1950s. The image exuded timeless elegance and charm, sparking Ruzaini's desire to pay homage to his grandmother’s distinctive style by reviving the memories and experiences of her pre-independence era in the SS25 collection.
Having established that the Kebaya would be the main protagonist of this collection, Ruzaini further delves into iconic kebaya costumes immortalized in the films of P. Ramlee, Saadiah, and Kasma Booty—especially in *Penarek Becha* (1955) and *Rachun Dunia* (1950).
CONCEPT
As mentioned, for the Rizman Ruzaini Spring/Summer 2025 collection, the kebaya takes center stage. This revered garment, one of the oldest and most iconic in Nusantara women's fashion, dates back centuries and flourished notably in the 1800s. The kebaya, with its intricate details and unparalleled elegance, is a symbol of cultural heritage and national identity—a sartorial masterpiece Rizman Ruzaini is proud to present on the global fashion stage.
The kebaya has evolved over the years, giving rise to various styles categorized as traditional, modern, and fashion kebayas. These variations continue to captivate and resonate across diverse communities, standing as a testament to the garment's enduring allure.
EMBROIDERY
In the 1940s, the introduction of embroidery machines gave rise to the modern kebaya, distinguished by intricate plant motifs favored by the Malay and Jawi Peranakan communities, while the Chinese Peranakan kebayas feature animal motifs reflecting their customs and cultures. The Chinese Peranakan kebaya is also notable for its intricate cut-out designs on the sleeves, back, and side panels, showcasing meticulous craftsmanship. A decade later, the kebaya silhouette became more form-fitting, with the Kota Bharu kebaya, influenced by Indonesian designs, becoming popular among women in Kelantan.
BATIK
Rizman Ruzaini places a spotlight on batik, a cultural emblem revered in the Nusantara and across Southeast Asia. While modern batik patterns are emerging to cater to contemporary tastes, traditional batik remains deeply respected and continues to be crafted with the utmost care. In this collection, batik sarong motifs enrich the SS25 designs, beautifully complementing the kebaya ensembles. The innovative translation of batik patterns into tambour beading and machine embroidery introduces a refined detail, marking a significant evolution in Rizman Ruzaini’s journey as fashion designers.
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