REISS Spring-Summer 2016 Collection
WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION
Nature’s authenticity offers tangible contrast in NATURAL SELECTION, where we see natural fibres combine with contrasting textures for a clean, modern interpretation. Rich, earthy spice tones offer a warm colour palette and the cashmere blend SHILOH and MOXIE loungewear set brings an element of luxury to downtime. Sharply tailored pieces are styled with softer, more subdued silhouettes such as the relaxed LANGLEY roll-neck jumper, and primal safari details offer a unique twist, with utility pocket detailing adorning the RAINE suede pencil skirt.
EASY ELEGANCE takes inspiration from performer and choreographer Pina Bausch to re-create the graceful silhouettes of the 1970s.
Designed with a relaxed shirt-inspired collar and dropped waist, the ARIZONA dress captures the aesthetic perfectly, whilst the KARMINE gilet offers a modern take on the look. An air of innocence is realised through delicate suedes, silks and mohairs, with languid, draped silhouettes and muted hues stealing the focus. The tiered maxi-length PERLE dress takes the look through to evening and stays true to the notion that movement should be fluid yet considered.
The complex portraiture of Marlene Dumas inspires PERIOD DRAMA, where Victoriana influences carry through to the caged lace ELIZA evening dress. Soft, delicately embroidered lace pieces such as the Premium TAMZIN dress and the sleeveless ELIAS top add romance to the collection and juxtapose sartorial elements.
With a nod to noir Americana, HITCHCOCK HEROINE salutes 1950s leisurewear and re-imagines vintage. The VERDI belted trench coat and wrap-front EVE trousers bring a vintage-inspired element to the capsule wardrobe and tie-waist details soften the look.
Sombre, moody prints take reference from the work of Franz Kline, while key staple styles include the fluid bias-cut BECCA dress.
REFERENCES
PINA BAUSCH - PERFORMER & CHOREOGRAPHER
GUSTAV KLIMT - VIENNA SECESSION MOVEMENT
FRANZ KLINE - NEW YORK SCHOOL OF ABSTRACT EXPRESSIONISM
ALFRED HITCHCOCK - THE BIRDS
ACCESORIES
SS16’s accessories collection is subtly inspired by the romanticism of the 1930s and 1940s highlighted through detailed finishing touches. Softness is present throughout the collection, with supple leathers and a natural colour palette injecting each piece with warmth.
More functional styles are inspired by marble, suede and nubuck leathers in their natural state.
Core bag designs range from the softly structured ENZA and ORLA totes to a more slouchy, tumbled-leather RUSSO clutch, and graphic, linear details update footwear. Vintage hardware continues and pendant embellishments feature for the first time.
This play on materials continues through to footwear with Vinyl and neoprene enhancing the contours of shoes to add a modern yet sexy twist. In a softer, more feminine story, a series of twisted suede detailing prevails. Flats are key to the collection with the signature VOLTA pumps re-imagined in seasonal colours and fabrications.
As the season moves into high-summer, espadrilles and wooden-sole sandals steal the spotlight. In contrast, high-gloss Perspex, crystal-encrusted and satin clutches offer an impactful alternative.
The collaboration with Christys’ continues with an array of panama hats including the TREVILL in white, black and mushroom, and wider brim options of BELARDO in natural and blue and LOVATO in brown.
The AVERY and LARENA bikinis boast unapologetic palm prints, whilst the BINX ribbed design nods to a 1990s-inspired minimal tone. Premium swimwear launches, with considered detailing adding that little something extra to the look. Flattering pin-tuck details adorn the RAQUEL bikini and the LUNA plunge one-piece, while the gunmetal embellished CODIE swimsuit features keyhole detailing.
MENSWEAR COLLECTION
‘Travel is the only thing you can spend money on to make you richer.’
Sidetracked, Volume 3, 2015
This season’s influence stems from the opulence of travel and the impact of hotter climes, resulting in a wardrobe where appropriateness and techniques gel with travel and new experiences. A prevalence of print, texture and colour emerges in a nod to ‘east-meets-west’ and forms a membrane between the two cultures.
‘In a natural world, time is a cycle – one season must be followed by the next…’
Gita Wolf, Creation, 2015
EVOLVING ROOTS sets the tone for the season and sows the seed for the aesthetic ahead. Attire is slick yet exotic, formal yet tropical and always weather-ready. A balance of indoor and outdoor lifestyles reflects the seasonal transition and results in a collection that is both work and weekend appropriate. Prints are both linear and contouring and shades of city blue, white clay, crimson and ancient bronze make for a strong colour palette. Stand out pieces include the WHISTLER and VALENTINE shirts, PUBLIC blazer and RUMOUR suede shirt jacket.
Structure and precision reside in ORDERLY CREATION, embodying uncomplicated style and refined simplicity. Hues become lighter and more natural in chalk, rock and wicker, whilst patterns become bolder and more angular with the introduction of placement and colour blocking. The JURASSIC leather jacket, CARMEN colour block knit, DON trainers and CUPID mixer suit feature.
As temperatures rise and evenings lengthen, NOONDAY SUN lightens the mood. A desire for freshness makes way for fluid, languid silhouettes. Open, hand-crafted and natural prints appear in warmer tones of cyan, cloud blue, palm green and cinder rose.
The ROMAN suit and FEATHER and TUNBRIDGE shirts encapsulate this story.
EAST MEETS WEST heralds the arrival of earth and spice tones as well as blown up, botanical prints that celebrate the culture clash. Colours include: fennel, cinnamon, saffron and cumin. As the holiday season descends, sun-blush hues are unveiled to create the perfect warm weather wardrobe including: the PALMA print shirt, SEBASTIAN jacket and LUXOR trousers.
The voyage to a tropical Empire is unleashed in ON THE NILE as true high summer dressing takes shape with the POPE jacket and PERDIE shirt. Exotic prints and a palette of eucalyptus, aquamarine and terracotta feature across the collection, with swimwear and shirts proving to be particularly noteworthy.
NINETEEN SEVENTY-ONE: A youthful companion to the mainline collection, 1971 treads the line between tradition, craftsmanship and innovative technicality. Authentic yet contemporary, this collection makes a playful reference to acid house for SS16, with highlights: MIAMI polo shirt, CAMPARI shorts, BASTIAN suede jacket and BERMUDA print shirt.
REFERENCES
HIMALAYAN STYLE - THOMAS L. KELLY AND CLAIRE BURKERT 2014
PATTERN AND ORNAMENT IN THE ARTS OF INDIA - HENRY WILSON 2011
CREATION - BHAJJU SHYAM & GITA WOLF 2015
ANIMALIUM - KATIE SCOTT AND JENNY BROOM 2014
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